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Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux: “We’re going to...
Baselworld

Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux: “We’re going to make the products that the brand needs”

Sunday, 22 March 2015
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Michel Jeannot

“Eternity is a very long time, especially towards the end.”

Woody Allen

Michel Jeannot is at the head of Bureau d’Information et de Presse Horlogère (BIPH), a Swiss news agency working with a dozen media worldwide.

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4 min read

The new head of Sowind (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) intends to take Girard-Perregaux back tobasics. In particular, new products, a new communication strategy and strengthened distribution are on the menu. Meanwhile,JeanRichard will continue its business activities with aggressive entry-level prices.

The new CEO of Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard is a man focused predominantly on products. And it is first and foremost through products that he intends to resuscitate Girard-Perregaux’s identity as “a historic player in fine watchmaking, mastering an array of expertise in-house.” The 1966 rangeis set to play a key role in the task of clarifying the brand’s collections. “This is an exceptional product, which we are going to cleverly rework in order to give it more depth,” reveals Antonio Calce. With, in particular, steel versions fitted with Manufacture movement sand priced from 8,500 Swiss francs. The aim is to develop the 1966 collection over a range of price segments. Also on the cards are a skeleton version and two-tone gold and steel models.

With its characteristic shaped case, the 1945 line will be dedicated to the brand’s craftsmanship and creativity, with many different versions of original dials as well as limited editions in gold. The Cat’s Eye range, which is “a truly feminine watch in its own right, not just a smaller men’s model,” emphasizes the CEO, will be continued, notably with small complications and two-tone gold and steel versions, which are “very popular, especially in the United States.”

This reorganization, which is perfectly in line with the history and identity of the brand.
Antonio Calce
3 bridges, 2 bridges, 1 bridge...

The famous Three Gold Bridges-a historic brand signature that Girard-Perregaux has been highlighting with tourbillons for several years-will undergo new, major developments as part of a new four-levelprice segmentation. The classic tourbillons-nowmade exclusively of gold-will be continued, as will their contemporary Neo-Tourbillon versions, which will only be offered in less classic materials, such as titanium. But the main innovation in this collection lies in the introduction of other, more affordable complications, including the famous bridge signature close to Girard-Perregaux’s heart. One bridge will adorn models below 25,000 Swiss francs, while two bridges will equip the more developed complications positioned between the collection’s entry-price models and the tourbillons.

These product ranges will be complemented by a sports collection “that corresponds to the brand and its image-so not extreme,” as Antonio Calce is keen to point out. In addition to chronographs, it will include the renowned ww.tc watches, which will return to their original configuration with the famous crown on the left. Finally, a Fine Watchmaking collection will top it all off, with production of a few hundred pieces per year, including a new upcoming Minute Repeater.

In addition to the products, Antonio Calce will also tackle the distribution network, making it stronger and of higher quality. We know that many resellers claim to be tired of Girard-Perregaux’s endless reorganizations (not to mention changes of direction), but Antonio Calce sees the situation differently. “On the contrary,” he maintains, “they are very receptive to our current efforts to refocus and return to our roots, and are glad to be able to contribute to this reorganization, which is perfectly in line with the history and identity of the brand.”

The general message will focus on the brand's heritage and its reality as a Manufacture.
Fine watchmaking and expertise on the menu

In terms of communication, the general message will focus on the brand’s heritage and its reality as a Manufacture, which means that its movie partnerships will not be renewed. The CEO emphasizes that “our magnificent museum and Manufacture are exceptional assets. It’s up to us to give them more prominence. We have to give the brand back its own extremely strong identity in terms of fine watchmaking and mastered expertise.”

In terms of timing, Antonio Calce seems to have a specific mission: “This new momentum and desire to put Girard-Perregaux back on the right track must be noticeable this year. But the real brand revival will be truly felt in 2016, so that the following year, Girard-Perregaux can regain the magnitude of a major name in fine watchmaking, and benefit from the image and perception that go with it.”

 

Both brands must follow their own paths.
Antonio Calce

As for the rumors suggesting an outright end to JeanRichard’s activity, Antonio Calce categorically denies them. “JeanRichard will not cease trading. We are going to pursue the brand’s single-product identity, which is an interesting concept.” But the new head intends to focus more on the product itself, “with highly aggressive entry-level prices”-so no Manufacture movements-while reconsidering distribution. So will there be any synergy with Girard-Perregaux? “Both brands must follow their own paths, so we’re not envisaging merging the marketing or product development of Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard into one entity. However, we will introduce synergy where it makes sense and doesn’t damage the identities of the brands.In the long term, we believe that JeanRichardcan become a very attractive brand with a coherent philosophy and positioning.”

In conclusion, Antonio Calce recognizes the challenges that await him: “It’s a big task, but I love a challenge and I’m confident. However, we must move quickly. To do so, I have some magnificent cards up my sleeve to put things right again and help Girard-Perregaux regain its rightful place in fine watchmaking. A whole team of extremely motivated individuals is working on it as we speak.”

Article published in BIPH

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