Brands add depth to their collections
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Christophe Roulet
Editor-in-chief, HH Journal
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Brands at Watches and Wonders unveiled new takes on firm favourites that will continue to fuel demand among watch enthusiasts.
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater
From Saxony, a new addition to the Richard Lange collection in the form of a minute repeater housed in a platinum case, which A. Lange & Söhne is presenting as a limited edition of 50. The manual-winding L122.1 calibre incorporates three special features: elimination of the pause between the hour and minute strikes; a safety device so that the repeater cannot be activated when the crown is pulled out, and locking of the crown when the chiming mechanism is active.
Baume & Mercier Hampton Hommage à Pierre Soulages
Baume & Mercier found inspiration for this 102-piece limited edition, which joins the Hampton collection, in French abstract artist Pierre Soulages’ Outremer series. The brand took advantage of the latest 3D printing technologies to shape the case, while the dial is in laser-etched brass. The matte effect is achieved using Candia stone, after which colour is applied to the surface with electroplating. A last coat of transparent lacquer protects the finished piece.
Cyrus Klepcys Dice Lime
First seen in 2021, the Klepcys DICE (Double Independent Chronograph Evolution) results from a deep reflection on the role of timing in sports competitions. Designed by Jean-François Mojon for Cyrus Genève and manufactured in Le Locle, it returns with a vibrant lime green livery, with a choice of polished and satin-brushed grade 5 titanium or black DLC grade 5 titanium for the case.
Czapek Rattrapante Ice Blue
The latest iteration of the Antarctique Rattrapante, developed in collaboration with Chronode, goes by the name Ice Blue: a colour said to “exude calm and poise”. Czapek’s signature subdials immediately stand out, with the 30-minute totaliser at 4 o’clock and small seconds at 7 o’clock. In the centre is a tripod bridge that holds down the patented satellite minute train and the split-seconds mechanism. Clearly visible on the dial side are the two column wheels.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Transparency is the key to this new addition to the Pioneer collection by H. Moser & Cie., who has structured the three-dimensional architecture of the movement around the tourbillon then skeletonised the whole thing. Sitting under a domed sapphire crystal, whose profile is echoed by the gently curved subdial with stick-shaped Globolight® hour markers, the one-minute tourbillon is the star of this show. Its cylindrical balance spring sits perpendicular to the balance wheel, at the top of the balance staff. Water-resistance is 120 metres.
IWC Montre d’Aviateur Chronographe Top Gun Edition « Woodland »
IWC worked with Pantone to develop this particular shade of “Woodland” green, which appears on the ceramic case, dial and strap of this Pilot’s Watch, in combination with matte black Ceratanium® for the pushers and case back. The movement is IWC’s in-house 69380 calibre, which features a classic column-wheel construction for the chronograph. A soft iron inner case protects it against magnetic fields.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™ Verde Smeraldo
The first Panerai watch in eSteel™ — a partly recycled metal that demonstrates the brand’s commitment to finding sustainable solutions — debuted in 2021. Now Panerai has extended its offering with two versions of the new QuarantaQuattro. The 44mm case, case back, crown-guard and bezel (with ceramic insert) are all made from eSteel™, which represents 52% of the watch’s total weight. The P.900 automatic movement amasses three days of power reserve.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
New executions of the Tonda PF Skeleton in gold or steel confirm an aesthetic direction that emphasises purity and restraint. The devil is in the details of the skeletonisation and decoration of the movement, which showcases graphite-coloured bridges and alternates sandblasted and satin-brushed surfaces. Minimalist yet complex, this Tonda PF Skeleton is powered by Calibre PF 777 whose 187 components are housed in a 40mm case with a polished and knurled bezel.
Ressence Type 8 C
The latest creation from Ressence is a lesson in simplicity with its clean, convex dial in titanium. Hours and minutes are displayed courtesy of the brand’s patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). The case, in lightweight grade 5 titanium with polished and satin textures, is designed to conceal the junction of strap and case. Compact and hyper-modern, driven by a traditional automatic movement, the Type8 C is geared towards user comfort and maximum readability.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier 954
The latest evolution of the Excalibur collection takes the shape of an Excalibur Monobalancier whose RD 720SQ calibre packs 72 hours of power reserve. As well as an optimised micro-rotor, the escapement in diamond-coated silicon (DCS) with adjustable pallet stones ensures greater efficiency in energy transmission. The case is sculpted from EON Gold™ and mounted on an embossed black calfskin strap. Last but not least, this Excalibur Monobalancier is hallmarked Poinçon de Genève.
Speake-Marin Tutti Frutti
Part of the Art-Series collection, the Tutti Frutti by Speake-Marin combines the elegance of black with “paint splashes” of colour. Its SMA03 movement is automatically wound by an integrated micro-rotor and sits inside a red gold Piccadilly case, with a choice of 38mm and 42mm diameters. The choice of carbon for the dial replicates the mineral aspect of natural stone.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma 44
New from TAG Heuer, the Carrera Plasma stands out for its use of lab-grown diamonds, a technique that opens up exciting new possibilities in terms of design and light effects. The dial in polycrystalline diamond is one of the highlights of this new Carrera. Crystals are grown in layers to produce the “diamond effect” that gives the dial its unprecedented morphology. The movement is the COSC-certified Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph with carbon balance spring.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Tudor’s new Black Bay Pro features a 39mm diameter, a fixed steel bezel and an in-house movement – Calibre MT5652 – with a built-in GMT function. This illustrates the technical development process inherent to Tudor which, rather than have recourse to additional modules, builds on the evolutive nature of its in-house movements to integrate new functions.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S
What, at first glance, looks like twin turboprops on a rocket is none other than the first double oscillator connected by a differential, which the engineers at Ulysse Nardin have combined with Grinder automatic winding: a system that is twice as efficient as a conventional system. Every inch a Freak watch, this Freak S has no dial, no crown and, doing away with hands, uses the rotation of its movement on a central axis to show hours and minutes. Power reserve is 72 hours.
Zenith Chronomaster Open
Zenith came to Watches and Wonders with the latest execution of its Chronomaster Open. A partial opening in the tri-colour dial gives a glimpse of the high-frequency El Primero 3600 calibre. Introduced in 2021, this new, improved, next-gen movement times with tenth-of-a-second precision. A 39.5mm case diameter corresponds to current tastes for sub-40mm sizes.
