SIHH a collector’s paradise

The following top 11 pieces are special for various reasons: for representing a new development in an iconic collection; housing a unique variation on a high complication; or a new combination of complications in a particular model; or they simply represent a totally unique watchmaking invention or world record measurement or function.

Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon

The cage of this fully in-house tourbillon rotates around the two-level dial, producing more than the usual show of virtuosity in a tourbillon. It is a hand-wound flying tourbillon, housed in a 47mm case of pink or white gold. “The movement is revolutionary, says Thierry Lamouroux, marketing and development manager of Cartier’s watch division. Because it is pure innovation”

IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

This flying tourbillon is positioned at 12 o’clock instead of the conventional 6 o’clock position, with a cage and gold balance that are highlighted against a blackened background plate. The dial is dominated by a retrograde flyback date indicator. IWC will make 250 pieces in platinum at $124,000 (€88,500) and 500 pieces in pink gold at $102,000 (€72,800).

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic

Originally launched in 1994, the Lange 1 has become a collector’s favorite, and was introduced by A. Lange & Söhne for the first time with an automatic calibre, including a retrograde day of the week in addition to the iconic small seconds, large date (moved to the left, instead of right) and off-centre dial. It will be made in red gold ($ 28,500 / €20,350) and platinum ($38,500 / €27,500). “This is a special collection dedicated to precise timekeeping, and that makes it iconic,” says Lange’s Arnd Einhorn.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox International

In celebration of the 125th anniversary of JLC, the brand has created this limited-edition Master Memovox, in honour of the first automatic mechanical alarm produced by JLC for Memovox in 1956. It is also known as the Memovox World Timer. It is produced in two limited editions, in 18k pink gold (250 pieces), priced at $22,150 (€15,800), and steel (750 pieces), priced at $11,350 (€8,100). “All the watches with this movement become collector’s items,” says JLC’s marketing director Stéphane Belmont.

Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon Titanio - L’Astronomo

Tourbillons are obviously stronger than ever despite the recession. This one is special for Panerai because it is also an equation of time, with a sky view on the caseback, representing the most adornment we have seen from Panerai. The only indication on the dial to signal the tourbillon movement is the characteristic moving dot on the seconds subdial, rotating with the carriage, which is otherwise hidden. It has a sunrise/sunset indicator on the flange and a linear equation of time variance indicator on the dial.

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Technique

GF’s latest tourbillon invention is a double barrelled double tourbillon that rotates at a 30-degree angle. The mainplate is finished in black to serve as a contrasting backdrop to highlight the openworked movement, including the double tourbillon cage, double mainspring barrel and several wheels and pins. Stephen Forsey describes it as “a theatre, in which the eye is drawn to the highly finished movement.”

Montblanc TimeWriter 1 Metamorphosis

This shape-shifting watch transforms itself to reveal a dial under the main dial via a patented system that peels away the dial with hour/minute/seconds functions to reveal a dial with chronograph functions. A lever on the case side causes four wings in the lower half of the dial to open and slide under one another, disappearing to the left and right beneath the dial’s middle bar. It takes 15 seconds to transform. The movement represents the brand’s first development of the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie, formed to create new movements for the brands, and is the first in the TimeWriter series. It is priced at $273,000 (€195,000).

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Equation of Time

This perpetual calendar with equation of time movement can be calibrated to nearly anyone’s city, showing the correct time of sunrise and sunset and the equation of time, linked to the perpetual calendar. It is the movement’s debut in a Royal Oak case. $75,800 (€54,100) in 18k rose gold (also available in steel).

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar palladium

The 1966 is named in honour of the Neuchatel Observatory’s Centenary Prize, awarded to the Manufacture in 1966 for its achievements in the field of chronometry. It is produced in a limited edition of 199 pieces in palladium, with an automatic calibre with full calendar and moon phase functions. “It has the functions and the style of a great iconic classic,” says Valérie Oppliger of GP, who points out that a beautiful GP full calendar watch is mentioned on the first page of the Ian Fleming novel From Russia With Love.

Piaget 1200P automatic

The 1200P is the automatic version of the brand’s famously slim 12P hand wound movement. It is 2.35 mm thick compared to the manual at 2.30 mm. The 1200P measures in as the world’s slimmest automatic movement. It is cased in two anniversary-edition Altiplano, limited to 235 pieces in 18k white gold or 235 pieces in 18k pink gold.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2253

This model is an equation of time/perpetual calendar in the iconic Patrimony case, rendered in platinum and limited to 10 pieces. The 14-day/336 hour power reserve is achieved with four mainspring barrels. Power reserve is shown through the crystal caseback. The band is stitched with platinum silk thread. It is priced at ($446,000 / €318,000).