Classic watches make a statement at SIHH
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Fabrice Eschmann
Freelance journalist
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Historic designs and classic watches still have plenty to offer. Their elegant simplicity inspires fresh interpretations as well as contemporary creations that continue to top sales in all categories. SIHH 2018 provides numerous eloquent examples.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in copper blue
The Saxonia was one of the first watches from the newly resurrected A. Lange & Söhne in 1990. This latest ultra-thin version – a mere 6.2mm thick for 39mm in diameter – features a shimmering copper-blue goldstone dial. The in-house movement bears the hallmarks of German watchmaking with its three-quarter plate, finished with Glashütte ribbing, and hand-engraved balance cock. A white gold case and alligator strap complete the picture.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin
The Royal Oak is named after the battleship HMS Royal Oak, with its distinctive octagonal cannon hatches, which took its name from the oak tree that gave cover to the future King Charles II in 1651. Of all the Royal Oak, this “Jumbo” bears the strongest resemblance to the original design from 1972. The extra-thin automatic calibre 2121 and the 39-mm diameter are unchanged. The titanium case is new for 2018.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic
The most exciting part of this watch is what’s inside, namely the new Baumatic calibre. Five years in the making, Baume & Mercier developed the technology for this automatic movement with Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier and Richemont’s Research & Innovation team. It features a silicon escapement and balance spring, withstands magnetic fields of 1,500 Gauss, and provides five days of power reserve. A value proposition that will be hard to beat.
Cartier Santos de Cartier
The Santos is ingrained in Cartier’s history. Created by Louis Cartier in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the daredevil aviation pioneer, it was the first watch made specifically to be worn on the wrist. This version in gold or steel conserves the Santos’ signature square shape and the eight screws around the bezel, but adds the patented QuickSwitch system for the strap, thanks to which the wearer can swap from metal to calfskin or alligator in the wink of an eye.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Automatic
The La Chaux-de-Fonds brand is extending its Laureato range this year with a version in ceramic, a chronograph and a flying tourbillon, but hasn’t overlooked the basic version. First released in 1975, revived as a limited edition in 2016 and fully relaunched last year, the Laureato is recognisable by its octagonal bezel, Clous de Paris hobnail dial and the rounded link that runs along the centre of its metal bracelet.
Hermès Carré H
Not even a decade old and already a star. Designed by Marc Berthier in 2010, the Carré H instantly stands out for its clear line and balanced proportions. The 2018 version is a few millimetres larger and something of an eye-catcher thanks to its polished and microbead-blasted finish, guilloché dial and facetted hands. By incorporating the zero into each hour numeral, the specially-created dial font makes for an even more appealing “face”. An in-house automatic movement ticks away inside.
IWC Portofino Automatic Edition "150 Years"
The watchmaker from Schaffhausen marks its 150th anniversary with a Jubilee collection of 27 limited-edition models shared across four collections: Portugieser, Pilot’s Watches, Da Vinci and Portofino. Three join the latter range, including this elegant Portofino Automatic. Proposed with a choice of a white or blue dial, each limited to 2,000 pieces, it sports a 40-mm steel case.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic
Fifty years after launching the Memovox Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre debuts the Polaris collection, inspired by this legendary timepiece. First in the five models that make up this new family, the Polaris Automatic borrows its two crowns – one to set the time and one to adjust the rotating inner bezel – from the brand’s dive watches. The sunray finish in the centre of the dial takes its cue from the original Memovox Polaris.
Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Date
Minerva, Montblanc’s fine watch manufacturing arm, was established in 1858. Well-known for its remarkably legible pocket watches, it gained international renown from the early 1880s when it replaced key-winding with the far more convenient pendant-winding. For this 160th anniversary year, Montblanc has looked to these historic pieces for its Star Legacy collection. The perfectly round case and crown of this automatic with date are reminiscent of these earlier pocket watches.
Officine Panerai Luminor Due 42mm
Panerai has never strayed from its historic roots. Established in 1860, it supplied watches to the Italian navy during the twentieth century and continues to propose just two styles: the Radiomir and the Luminor. This year, the Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic makes its first appearance with a 38-mm case alongside the 42-mm diameter. This is also the first time it has featured a date aperture. As on all Luminor watches, a crown guard protects against accidental knocks.
Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Hebdomadaire
The Kalpa collection goes back to Parmigiani Fleurier’s earliest days. Its tonneau form mirrors that of the first shaped wristwatch movement that Michel Parmigiani created in 1998. This FP110 calibre provides a remarkable eight-day power reserve, made possible by two series-mounted barrels. This same “engine” is to be found inside the taut lines of the new Kalpa Hebdomadaire.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon
Vacheron Constantin has introduced a new automatic tourbillon movement to its Traditionnelle range. Hand-bevelling the bar of the tourbillon cage requires a full 12 hours of concentration. The result can be admired through an opening in the dial at 6 o’clock. This new timepiece is proposed in a pink gold case measuring 41mm in diameter, and also as an exclusive Collection Excellence Platine edition.
