Munich: Inhorgenta Europe 2013 trade show
Timely change from faux macho to Spartan elegance: men are joining the ranks of the fashion-conscious. Review of German made luxury watches and clocks emerging from a cautious German industry.
Munich’s Inhorgenta Europe 2013 celebrates its fortieth jubilee with a reorganisation of the halls and an expansion of its scope. The watches and jewellery industry that exhibits at Inhorgenta is showing signs of emerging from the crises assailing the worlds financial markets and R&D is likewise again on the move. Retro is still current and Art Deco abounds. Reworked 1930s classics are a staple part of the current offers and with austere, slim elegance replacing faux macho, an increasing number of men are joining the ranks of the fashion-conscious.
Affordable luxury
The numbers are looking good too. Klaus Dittrich, CEO of Messe München said about the first Inhorgenta: “In 1974, the first Inhorgenta opened its doors with 210 exhibitors from 19 countries and 4,350 trade visitors came from 29 countries. It included watches, clocks, jewellery, precious stones and silverware”. And of today he said “The year 2013 is a jubilee year for Inhorgenta Munich which has a stronger international orientation thanks to a large number of new exhibitors from abroad. 1,237 exhibitors from 38 countries are exhibiting their latest collections at the New Munich Trade Fair Centre, an increase of 9% over last year. For the first time, Inhorgenta Munich occupies seven halls and thus an area of 76,000 square metres.”
And the buyers certainly came as well. Trade buyers numbering 30,000 came from 85 countries to Inhorgenta Munich – an increase of around two per cent over last year.Thus the fair was able to strengthen its international character and consolidate its role as a leading show worldwide for “affordable luxury” in the area of jewellery and timepieces. High end German watchmaking and clockmaking industries are again flourishing, particularly those who have diversified into export markets which have protected them from the troughs of the recent global economic malaise. Inhorgenta is the annual launch pad for German watch brands. And it was gratifying that what the German makers offered reflected a clear resurgence of the slim and elegant dress watch over heavy duty waterproof macho statement-makers.
A respectable movement inside
The Nomos watch from the German watchmaking enclave of Glashütte has set a benchmark in slim elegance over two decades. Junghans too was conscious of the role of style. A collaboration between Junghans and Max Bill began in 1956 with the design of a kitchen clock which he developed at the Ulm College of Design. The design of the face relates directly with the wristwatches in 1961, when Max Bill laid the cornerstone for what was destined to be his celebrated line of watches. They also moved on to become true design benchmark classics clearly reflected in the 2013 models exhibited by Junghans and Kienzle.
Watches should no longer just be smart, decorative or even valuable but should also have a respectable movement inside. An increasing number of buyers are becoming interested in high-quality mechanisms and an increasing number of manufacturers are likewise recognising this new consciousness. The watchmaking tradition in Glashütte is the seat of high class German movements and complications calibres. With their new ‘Homage Minute Repeater’, Tutima goes back to the roots of the brand – and presents the first watch designed with the minute repeater complication in Glashütte. At the beginning of the year, the first specimens of this exquisite piece with a platinum case were delivered. This new range of models marks the start of a completely new collection of Tutima watches ‘Made in Glashütte’ and celebrates the official reinauguration of the Tutima manufacturing location in this richly traditional German watchmaking town.
Phenomenal diversity
Augusta tools ran excellent demonstrations of casting in Delft Clay which is a development by Hans Karreman, a Delft goldsmith. Since the eighties, Hans Karreman has been experimenting with mouldable clay and after several years the “Delft Clay Method of Casting” grew out of this. It is possible to cast jewellery and small objects in gold, silver and other metals in a mould of this Delft clay. Objects can be cast remarkably sharp and quickly and the Delft Clay is reusable and cannot dry out due to its special composition.
There is no doubt that the range of tools available for the tradesman and broader manufactory can only be fully understood by attending the fair. The diversity is phenomenal. Boley, Augusta Technik (Pforzheim), Lampert (PUK Welders) and a whole wide gamut of industry suppliers is available for the buyer’s roving eye and willing wallet.
Have a look
Inhorgenta Munich excels by presenting the complete output chain – from young aspiring designers to leading international jewellery and watch brands. The fair presents manufacturing technology to diamonds and gemstones, accessories and replacement parts. Inhorgenta Munich is a meeting point for the entire industry – for producing companies, licensed brands and licensees, for dealers and distributors, for associations and schools, for trainees and media representatives too.
Inhorgenta Munich 2014 takes place on 14 – 17 February at the New Munich Trade Fair Centre. Take the time to plan a visit to Inhorgenta next February and have a holiday as well in this wonderfully friendly Bavarian city of Munich – you will certainly never regret it.
