Panerai: China captivated by Italian design

For an Asian customer, Officine Panerai may well mean little more than an oversized watch cut out for the deep, with counterfeit versions hawked on street corners. All the more reason why Chief Executive Angelo Bonati delighted in reminding visitors at Watches&Wonders, held in Hong Kong late September, of the brand’s true substance and why it stands apart. Established in 1860 in Florence and a specialist in precision naval instruments, Officine Panerai was commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy to develop a sufficiently rugged timepiece for its frogman commandos. The Radiomir saw daylight in 1936, followed a dozen years later by the Luminor with its characteristic crown protection. Despite two such distinctive models, both equipped with Rolex movements, Panerai was only just managing to keep its head above water… until a certain Sylvester Stallone, on location in Italy to film Daylight, happened upon a Panerai watch. He bought it there and then, wore it during filming, and contacted Panerai to have two hundred made as gifts for friends.

“One of these watches found its way to Johann Rupert, Chairman of the Richemont Group,” explained Angelo Bonati to a captive audience. “The year was 1997 and this 44mm watch stuck out like a sore thumb among the classical, much smaller watches which were then all the rage. We had nothing more to go on than this one watch by a brand that didn’t exist, but we still had faith in the project. Officine Panerai became part of the group that year with the ambition to revive a name which meant nothing to the general public yet had so much history.” A history that has since conquered the globe. Without going into detail, the company has given itself the means to achieve its ambitions: a manufacturing facility in Neuchâtel (Switzerland) in 2002; the first Panerai movement, the P 2002, three years later; the first bronze watch in 2011…

Swiss craftsmanship, Italian design

Today, 90% of Panerai watches are equipped with movements that are designed, developed and made in-house. Within the next two years, the remaining 10% should join the fold. But the one quality that sticks to the brand like glue is its identity. “We represent technical innovation, with our history of watches designed for extreme conditions,” comments Angelo Bonati. “We also represent Swiss watchmaking expertise, with our production facilities in Neuchâtel. But we never forget where we’re from. With the Radiomir and Luminor, Italian design is in Panerai’s blood.”

Reiterating these Italian origins, Panerai came to Hong Kong with its Radiomir 1940 – 42 mm and Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm, together with three limited editions, two Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT – 45mm and one Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm Paneristi Forever. “In the 1940s, the Panerai workshops in Florence perfected a new case, designed to meet the increasing demands of the commandos of the Italian Navy. This case was a development of the one presented in 1936, known today as the Radiomir, a term which originally referred to the luminous material patented by Panerai to make the dial readable in the dark,” notes the brand. Angelo Bonati’s lesson to visitors at Watches&Wonders is a reminder that Panerai watches build on the very latest innovations yet never stray from the spirit that produced a style rooted in adventure and originality.