The learning curve

“The industry has a duty to explain what Fine Watchmaking is. Brands invest huge amounts of energy and money in developing magnificent, technically complex products, but spend relatively little on training and information. Our ambition is to become the reference in the field. Because no-one else does what we do.” Aurélie Streit, who heads the training department at Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), speaks with the passion that drives those who set out to break new ground. From the Foundation’s earliest days (it was established in 2005 and now counts 29 watch brands among its partners), the mission to train and inform about Fine Watchmaking has been in its blood. Having initially focused its efforts on students and professionals working in the industry, it is now increasingly reaching out to members of the public with fun as well as more serious ways to build up a proper understanding of watches and the skills behind them.

HH Academy

The Foundation’s objective is to “promote Fine Watchmaking and take this expertise into the world through four missions to inform, train, recognise and organise.” To this end, in 2014 it set up HH Academy with the main purpose of training sales staff. “As brands opened their own stores to sell their products, they became retailers,” notes Aurélie Streit. “They taught staff about the technical aspects of their watches but there was still no solid, basic training of benefit to all. Sales staff often found themselves at a loss, unable to compare and explain the respective merits of different watches, for example.”

After a foundation course on “Watch Essentials”, students can build up their knowledge through a series of modules or Classes, each with a particular focus: complications, chronographs, tourbillons, calendar watches, striking watches, multiple time zones, not forgetting jewellery watches. So far, close to 9,000 people have taken classes at locations around the globe, delivered in nine languages by 23 trainers. “We work with local trainers for face-to-face teaching. It’s essential that students and trainer understand each other, both linguistically and culturally.”

While knowledge may be its own reward, the FHH understands the importance within the learning process of acknowledging progress. This is the role of HH Certification. Candidates answer 80 (Watch Essentials) or 160 (Watch Expert) multiple-choice questions taken from a database of 3,000 propositions covering four areas: techniques, culture & history, materials & finishes, and market players. Though still relatively young – the scheme was launched in April 2016 after three years of development – already close to 2,000 people have passed with flying colours: around 1,600 for the Watch Essentials test and the remainder for the Watch Expert test. Aurélie Streit makes the point that HH Certification “has the advantage of being scientifically valid. Candidates don’t just answer the questions. They also indicate their level of certainty for each one. Their score is then weighted to reflect how honestly they rated themselves.”

An open door

Sales professionals are not the only audience concerned by the FHH’s training programmes. Students too. A one-day module, devised as an introduction to Fine Watchmaking, is proposed early in the curriculum to students at CREA (Geneva), Masters in Luxury Management at Haute Ecole de Gestion (Geneva), Sup de Luxe (Paris), Haute Ecole du Paysage, d’Ingénierie et d’Architecture (Geneva) and Haute Ecole d’Art et de Design (Geneva). Students at HEAD also benefit from lessons on the history of watchmaking as well as work shadowing days. In addition, the FHH tutors students on the university’s watch design course. After running a series of workshops at Ecole Hôtelière de Lausanne, the two organisations are discussing how they can further develop this collaboration. Next on the Foundation’s list are Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales (Paris) and Bocconi University (Milan). “We are the only ones to offer this type of teaching,” comments Pascal Ravessoud, secretary-general of the FHH Cultural Council. “It’s a broad-based approach that just as easily considers the markets, the size of the brands and their positioning, as the latest trends and production methods – all subjects which are hard to get a grasp on otherwise. This way, students are better equipped to understand later classes.”

Having so far concentrated on professionals and future professionals, the FHH is now bringing its learning resources to a wider public. For example, themed talks that were once reserved for watch brand staff, clubs and trade fair visitors are now open to outside audiences such as students or simply members of the public with an interest in watches. “Originally these presentations targeted professionals in the industry,” says Pascal Ravessoud. “We’ve now made them easier for the layperson to understand and are focusing our efforts on the end customer.”

Similarly, though devised as confirmation of progress made by sales staff who have completed the training modules, HH Certification is also open to anyone who wishes to obtain official recognition of their knowledge. Since April this year, they’ve been able to train for the test thanks to the FHH’s first mobile app, “Watch Essentials”, proposed in four languages from Apple Store and Google Play. Users, who can be watch industry professionals or novices in the field, move through 47 levels comprising quizzes, games and immersive videos. Further proof, were ever it needed, that the FHH has the customer in its sights. “Right now we’re working on an after-sales service guide for the end customer,” proffers Pascal Ravessoud. “It’ll be packed with useful information on this sensitive subject.”

Training proposed by HH Academy

INITIATE – HH Academy organises introductory workshops and conferences. The workshops are an opportunity to get to grips with the infinitely small by taking apart then reassembling a mechanical movement, guided by a professional watchmaker. Conferences cover a range of subjects relating to the history of watchmaking, watch design and complications, and are organised for groups on request. Both these activities are suitable for professionals and novices.

TRAIN – Devised for staff in sales, marketing or communication, at retailers and in brands’ own stores, there are eight training modules: Watch Essentials, Complication Class, Chrono Class, Tourbillon Class, Calendar Class, Timezone Class, Striking Class and Jewelry Class. Twenty-three trainers deliver classes in nine languages, over one or two days. Training is also proposed using digital tools.

CERTIFY – Training modules build up to the HH Certification exam and diploma. Intended for sales staff, it is also open to anyone wishing to validate their knowledge of watches and watchmaking. The exam covers four themes: techniques, market players, materials & finishes, and culture & history.

WATCH ESSENTIALS APP – The FHH’s first mobile app, in four languages and available from Apple Store and Google Play. Users move through the app’s 47 levels with quizzes, games and immersive videos, and test their understanding of watchmaking along the way.

Outside HH Academy
BACHELOR’S AND MASTER’S – Introduction to Fine Watchmaking for students in business, design, engineering or luxury. This one-day course looks at the different brands, markets, trends and production.