Intelligent invention

An invention is rarely the spark of revolution, as watchmakers know full well – even if the balance spring and anti-shock systems, to give but two examples, transformed watchmaking for centuries. Thankfully, this doesn’t prevent novel ideas from making their way onto our wrists. Through subtle improvements and combinations of existing solutions, designers succeed in creating genuinely different, original, even innovative timepieces. Several were on show at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

On a stand that brought the Galapagos Islands to Geneva, complete with hammerhead sharks overhead, IWC presented a revamped version of its Aquatimer dive watches. Traditionally, the brand has equipped all its dive models with an internal rotating bezel and interchangeable straps, and while these features haven’t moved, they have been intelligently redesigned for even greater reliability and ease of use. The inner bezel is no longer adjusted by the crown, with the attendant risk of moisture seeping in when operated underwater, but by the outer bezel which, via a sliding clutch system, commands its alter ego, positioned under the Crystal.

This new mechanism is integrated into the case, where it is distinguished by the addition of a cover at 9 o’clock. The strap attachment system has also been redeveloped, meaning the strap can now be released and attached almost with one hand. Aficionados will applaud (with both hands!) this more practical version which, thanks to spring bars, also accommodates NATO straps.

A pusher was the centre of attention at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Located on the left side of the Hybris Mechanica 11 Master Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, it activates the minute-repeater chimes. The innovation lies with a locking system that retracts the pusher when not in use, thereby preserving the clean lines of the case. One of the most admired and talked-about watches at the SIHH, the Hybris Mechanica 11 also incorporates an ingenious system which reduces the silences in the chime sequence. Consequently, the hiatus between striking the different indications – from quarters to minutes for example – is eliminated. Lastly, the flying tourbillon presents a novel construction. Conventionally, both balance-wheel and spring are mounted inside the tourbillon cage. Here, Jaeger-LeCoultre has fitted the tourbillon with a flying balance-wheel with the spring fixed above it, allowing an unobstructed view of the spring as it expands and contracts.

In the 1815 Tourbillon by A. Lange & Söhne, Saxon movement designers have combined stop-seconds and zero-reset functions into an intelligent solution that makes the tourbillon an even more meaningful complication. Theory tells us that the tourbillon improves timekeeping precision. However, anyone wishing to measure the accuracy of their timepiece, every watch-collector’s dream, has only limited options which require special testing equipment and the possibility to begin timing on demand. Which the 1815 Tourbillon can do. When the crown is pulled out, a movable spring instantaneously brakes the balance which remains under tension, ready to snap back into action. Meanwhile, a finger-piece causes the subsidiary seconds hand on the tourbillon cage to instantly jump to zero. Both start up again as soon as the crown is pushed back. Apart from the unusual sight of a tourbillon cage behaving like a chronograph hand, this innovative mechanism adds to the performance of an instrument whose purpose is to measure time with absolute precision.

Montblanc, it would seem, has rethought the aesthetic of its Rieussec collection, made in honour of the watchmaker who in 1821 devised an instrument capable of measuring short intervals. Whereas earlier versions tended to have crowded dials, the Homage to Nicolas Rieussec monopusher chronograph opts for uncluttered styling and light colours. It replicates features from the French watchmaker’s invention, such as an elongated hand shared by the discs measuring elapsed minutes and seconds. Playing on appearances, Montblanc has added an hour circle in ceramic permeated with luminescent pigments so that the Arabic numerals, which are invisible in daylight, appear in the dark to produce an unexpected, illusion-like effect.

True to form, Piaget has fathomed the limits of thinness with its Altiplano 900P, which uses the back of the case as a baseplate. Also, and contrary to the more usual construction, the bridges are mounted on the dial side. The end result measures a wafer-thin 3.65mm high. Beyond this novel architecture, never before seen on a hand-wound movement, Piaget had to contend with the possible deformation of the crystal. On such a small scale, any pressure exerted on the crystal would cause it to press on the hands. Not only would this stop the hands, it can also have a potentially damaging effect on the movement. Piaget has responded by fitting the hands not above but under the train-wheel bridge which forms a protective shield. A patent is pending for this innovation.

Minor or major though invariably discreet, these inventions make a world of difference. They make watches more comfortable and easier to use. They optimise their functions and increase reliability. And they open the door to often unconventional styling. In a word, they contribute to the desirability and quality one expects of a Fine Watch.