The infinite quest for eternal beauty

Cermet, a curious green metal used in the nuclear industry, makes its entrance at Hublot in the Bullet Bang. Ulysse Nardin continues to explore the intricacies of silicon, notably with its Freak Blue Phantom, while Girard-Perregaux had to wait for tool technology to catch up before it could machine silicon and transform research into reality for its new “Constant escapement”, unveiled as a prototype this year and which is expected to appear on the first models in 2010. Ceramic is still de rigueur for many companies, including Chanel (J12 Calibre 3125), Jaquet Droz (Grande Seconde Céramique Blanche) and Panerai (Luminor 1950), as is titanium at Zenith (Mega Port Royal Tourbillon) and Bethune (DB24), and carbon at Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak Concept Carbon).

On the subject of materials, rose gold makes frequent appearances as do chocolate-brown dials. Blue is the colour of diving watches while white returns centre-stage, often spilling beyond the dial onto the rest of the watch’s exterior. Many models boast cases whose dimensions stretch comfortably beyond 44mm (HD3, Vianney Halter, Richard Mille, IWC), confirming modern man’s desire to sport a powerful timepiece on his wrist. And in the midst of this there remains the pared-down simplicity that is intrinsic to classic watches and which continues to inspire magic at brands such as Chopard (L.U.C. XP) or Jaeger-LeCoultre (Master Ultrathin) in what is an infinite quest for eternal beauty.